The Walled City of Montagnana

Equidistance from Verona, Vicenza, and Padova, the walled city of Montagnana offers a unique experience in the Veneto region of Italy, well off the beaten path of the typical tourist trail. Situated in the Po River Valley, directly south of Vicenza's Berici Hills, this city offers a great day trip option for anyone exploring this culturally rich area.  With medieval castles, a two-kilometer city wall, and majestic Palladian villas, Montagnana has something for everyone in an easy to explore four-hour itinerary we will lay out for you here.

We begin our tour on the southwest wall of this rectangular city, at the Porta XX Settembre.  Free parking is available directly across the main road in an open lot.  From the car park, walk toward the wall, and make your way through the gate. To get your bearings, convenient maps with QR codes are interspersed throughout the city. You'll find one on the street corner just as you enter the city gate. After entering the city and walking to the right along the wall, you can admire the exposed interior of the city walls which were built between 1337 and 1362, along with 24 watch towers, constructed out of stone quarried from the nearby Euganean Hills, in the direction of Padova.

Southwestern Wall

Our first point of interest will be the church of San Francesco, located on your left as you walk along the inner wall.  Dating to the same era as the walls, the history of the church is well documented as far back as 1350.  Should you be lucky enough to get a peek inside, the interior is home to several 14th century frescoes, and a painting attributed to the renowned Venetian High Renaissance artist Palma il Giovane.

Continuing along the wall in the same direction, we soon come to the spectacular Castel San Zeno, with its 38-meter keep which dominates the skyline of the city.  As you approach the gate at the base of the tower, pop into the tourist information office and pick up a free plan of the city to help guide the rest of your walking tour.  If you have time, explore the castle's interior, which today contain the Municipal Historical Archive, and the town museum.  The museum contains a fascinating archeological section exploring the history of Montagnana from the late Neolithic age, through Roman and medieval times.

Castel San Zeno

Exit the city walls through the formidable Porta Padova passing underneath the castle keep and notice the iconic Paladin villa on the corner directly across the street.  A 16th century Venetian nobleman commissioned the famous architect Andrea Palladio to build the Villa Pisani as a holiday home.  Turning our attention back to the city walls, which we are now standing outside of, notice the wide moat which today is dry.  20-40 meters wide, it pre-dates the city walls by nearly 100 years.  It was filled with water via an elaborate system of canals connecting to the river Frassine in the year 1277 after hundreds of years of devastating conflict.  The walls were built soon after to protect the city that ironically soon lost its strategic importance after falling under the protection of Padova, and then Venice, in 14th century.

From the dry moat, facing the wall, proceed through the smaller pedestrian gateway to the right of the castle and make your way back into the city.  Walk through Piazza Trieste, and down the shopping street Via Guglielmo Marconi, and into Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, the heart of the city of Montagnana.  If the square reminds you of Piazza San Marco in Venice, it's because the white stone inlay was designed to imitate it.  Dominating the square to your right is the cathedral Duomo di S. Maria Assunta.

Duomo di S. Maria Assunta

Late Gothic in style, built between 1431 and 1502, the Duomo contains several interesting artistic elements to occupy a nice chunk of your tour.  Of immediate interest to your left upon entering is a huge painting depicting the Battle of Lepanto in which the Christian Holy League defeated the Ottomans in 1571.  Also of interest is the 16th century altar, and the embedded painting of the Virgin and Child, masterpiece of Giovanni Buonconsiglio. Looking up, to the apse, is the Transfiguration of Christ, painted in 1555 by another famous Venetian Renaissance artist, Paolo Veronese. On your way out of the Duomo, the same way you came in, notice the fresco depicting David and Goliath attributed to Giorgione.

Exit the Duomo and walk straight ahead across the Piazza.  Turn right, walking down Via Giacomo Matteotti toward Rocca Degli Alberi.  Notice the elaborate series of gateways that are now open to form the northwestern gate of the city, Porta Legnago.  Built around the same time as the city walls, this fortress was once completely surrounded by water and accessible only via drawbridge.

To wrap up your day trip to Montagnana spend an hour strolling the exterior of the walls imagining this city as it once was.   A strategic position giving rise to Neolithic settlements, Roman barracks, a medieval fortress, eventually joining the Venetians and their empire. Riches followed, bestowing upon this quaint city, art and architecture from renowned renaissance masters. Some of the best preserved medieval walls in Europe looking over the vast Veneto plain, with hills beyond, Montagnana remains a treasure worth discovering.

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